Cutting – Computer-controlled precision

State-of-the art manufacturing processes mean that our robots can prepare and cut up to 1,000 components per hour, and add any markings and holes. A robot requires a mere eight seconds to cut out a component; however, this may vary significantly, depending on the material.

We process up to 40 different leather and fabric components for any given shoe. Different colours, forms and materials are required depending on the model and size of the shoe, and these vary again depending on whether one is making the left shoe or the right shoe. Every day we produce thousands of different components in different quantities. Each component has to be cut exactly to half-millimetre precision. If they are not cut to precision, then they cannot be corrected later during the stitching process.

The cutting of the individual components requires the highest precision.

State-of-the-art cutting machines

Stuco uses state-of-the-art cutting machines in order to ensure the necessary precision. CAD data with the patterns and the precise dimensions for each model are sent straight to the software of the machine. The cutting robot determines the shape and size of the required component using the CAD data and then calculates the optimal distribution of the individual patterns on the material that is going to be cut. We do not really have to do much more than choose the right material and state the number of required pieces; the machine takes care of the rest. The robot cuts the pieces with an oscillating blade, and adds markings and holes where necessary, in a single step.

The challenge of leather

Cutting leather represents a challenge in comparison to cutting textiles. Unlike textiles, leather is not a uniform material. It is imperfect, it can vary in thickness, be softer in some places and harder in others. These differences in the texture of the material make it impossible for a robot to do everything on its own; it therefore needs the help of one of our highly skilled cutters. The cutter chooses the parts that are to be cut while the robot projects the pattern onto the leather, allowing the cutter to position the pieces as required.

When positioning the pieces, the cutter has to pay attention to both any flaws in the leather, as well as the stress direction. Leather has different stress directions, which means that it is very elastic in a certain direction. Therefore, if parts are cut in the wrong stress direction, then the shoe might end up being as soft as rubber.

Once the position has been determined, the machine adjusts the pattern accurately into the positioned parts to avoid any waste. The cutting now starts and the cutter can start positioning the next piece.