Assembly – Glue or double stitch

The final steps of the shoemaking process take place in the assembly process. The stitching process has produced an almost finished shoe upper; what is now missing is the outsole, the protective toe cap and any necessary reinforcing. Different types of assembly are used depending on the intended use for the shoes.

The first step of the assembly process consists of integrating the protective toe cap. The toe cap has a small rubber extension on the upper edge. This prevents the leather from cracking or breaking on the edge and causing an unpleasant transition. The protective toe cap is inserted between the shoe upper and lining of the front section. The upper part of the front section, which covers the toe cap, is subsequently pulled under the shoe. This process is referred to as lasting.

Depending on the intended use of the shoe, the outsole is either glued or stitched with a double seam.

Another great opportunity

After the lasting, the outsole is attached. Most soles are glued to the shoe upper using the AGO method. AGO stands for ‘another great opportunity’. The term refers to a synthetic glue that is especially suited to leather. The sole and shoe upper are bonded together using the component glue, heat and high pressure. The sole is slightly roughened on the inside in order to achieve optimal bonding. In this way, the shoe and the sole are inseparably bonded together in less than a minute.

Double stitching instead of gluing for shoes exposed to very high loads

Double stitching is used for shoes that are exposed to very high loads. This assembly method is used, among others, in construction ankle boots. Double stitching involves stitching the entire shoe upper to the midsole. This form of assembly requires a great deal more effort than gluing; however, it makes the shoe extremely durable. In addition, a stable frame is stitched on to reinforce the seam area. This provides the seam with effective protection against sharp and pointed objects.

At the end of the assembly process, the finished shoe is carefully cleaned and treated. The shoe was checked and fulfilled standardized quality criteria after every completed step of the production process. Once the shoe has been cleaned and treated, it is carefully checked again; only then is it packed into the box and sent to the customer.